I decided to do a screw mod on my SSK unlike a bolt mod which I did previously to my 104. I made this decision based upon some recent threads suggesting it may be easier and better. One mistake I made was using taping screws instead of machine screws. The difference is the shape of the screws. Taping screws taper unlike machine screws which are the same width all the way along. It is recommended to use machine screws as they will fully engage the plastic all the way along. This is different to machine screws where they don’t completely engage the plastic all the way along. The screws I used were 2.2 x 6.5 mm taping screws. I used these simply because I was unable to find machine screws with a large enough head. Whilst they worked fine for mine, I still have a feeling correct size machine screws will be a little better.
To make the holes I just used a 1.5mm drill bit.


Remove Case and Keycaps

The case is simple to remove if you have a 5.5mm driver. Without one I suggest using the biro trick. This involves melting the end of a biro and sticking it over a bolt to form the perfect driver. Doing this is surprisingly effective although you might find it takes a couple of tries. For me this took a huge amount of tries but satisfiable when it worked, if you don’t want to do this I suggest you invest in a 5.5mm nut driver.
IBM SSK Without Top Plate

Once you have the case open, detach the controller. Use enough force until it just slides out, at this stage it is fairly hard to break.
First remove the keycaps. You cannot put the keyboard together with the keycaps still attached because of how the springs are pushed in even when not pressed. So to get anywhere with this mod the keycaps must be removed first.
Once you have all the keycaps removed be, careful not to bend any of the exposed springs. This is easier to do than you think. Visible buckling springs


label

The first is to remove the label, there are two labels on these keyboards. One on the case and the other inside on the plate. I found that removing the exterior label on the case was much easier than the one on the steel plate. My technique to remove the label was to use a hair dryer to heat the area, then scrape the label off carefully with a stanley blade. An alternative is to use a razor blade, however I find these are much harder to control with your hand, it is also much easier to slice through the label. You will have to apply a lot of force to cleanly remove the label but also do this with great caution. It is very easy to put too much force and slice through the label. One issue I encountered was ripping the label when I tried to pry it off with my hands. Using the blade is much more effective and resulted in nearly no damage. Even if you are tempted, just use a blade instead. Patience is needed for this step, it took me a long time. st almost off


Removing Existing Rivets

bare Removing the rivets is an easy task but can seem hard. I found that using a stanley blade by hand was easy enough, but in the past I have used a chisel. I do not recommend using a chisel as this is the fastest way to blunt a chisel. When removing the rivets you must ensure you don’t slip and slice the traces as these can be quite a pain to repair. Once you have removed all the rivets, carefully separate the sections. Do not be to forceful at this stage as the barrels can be quite frail. slice all off


Rust Removal

ruso My plate had a little rust mostly on the back. It is important to stop the corrosion as best as you can. To do this I just used some sandpaper to remove the visible rust and rust preventer, which I applied to the plate. rusb


Removing Internals

sheet Once you have removed the rivets and separated the plate you must remove the membrane and the sheet. Here I found that some rivets were still too big to allow me to remove the sheet. I carefully cut the rest of the rivet, again with a stanley blade but with extra caution. Cutting anything this close to the membrane is quite risky but you will not be able to proceed without doing so.
Set the sheets aside without separating them. This just makes it a little easier to deal with later.

Once you have removed the membrane and the sheet you have to remove each spring. A method exists where you use masking tape to easily remove the springs. This allows you to remove them quickly but also allows you to reinsert them easily when you are finished. I had a go at this but then dropped the barrels. ohno
allremovedsprings


Pruning

excess
With access to the underside of the barrels you must remove the excess left behind by the rivets. Do this step carefully as retaining the crescent shapes either side of the rivet is essential to the construction of the keyboard. It is not the end of the world if you cut them a bit but you are looking to just remove the rest of the rivet. I managed to get most of them down to the same height as the crescents either side. To do the removing I used a stanley blade, (surprise) I couldn’t really find anything better for the job. The only caution that comes with using a stanley blade is try not to cut anything else. off
Also pictured is an attempt to create pilot holes. It turns out this didn’t really help anything.


Drilling

When drilling ensure that you are dead centre. There are varying thoughts here but I think it is best to just drill right through the centre this seems to yield good results. An alternative way is to put on the plate and drill through the centre of those holes. Doing that alternative method allows for slight variances in the plastic. I have not found this to be useful, so I just drilled in the centre.
Note that you do not need to do the bottom row. dirlls Again after you have done the drilling clean up the holes and remove excess plastic that has come from the drilling. A stanley blade does the job. Check that you have drilled in all the necessary places by placing the plate on the barrels. Ensure that it is the right way up :)


Reassembling

First you must put all the springs back. This may be one of the most arduous tasks if you did not correctly use the masking tape method.
When completing this step, you will need to suspend the barrel in some way. I used the Vin Diesel classic ‘XXX’ and the ‘Mask of Zorro’ but if you have any other vhs’s they will do. Other people have just used 2x4s.
xxx
If you managed to use masking tape, slot all the springs in so they are in the correct row. From here use one hand to slowly pull the tape back and the other to hold down the feet as you are pulling.
Note the space bar has only one spring. One slot is just for stabilisation.
all in

Once the springs are in place add the blanket and the membrane. None of this is too tricky and just ensure that the membrane layers are correctly aligned. membrane Add the screws. It can be quite hard to get the screws in straight, but you want to put them in some uniform way so you can reinsert them in the future maintaining the same orientation. This is crucial when using screws instead of bolts. You want to re-engage the same threads.
Reattach the controller, put it in the case and you should be done. almost done done ish

Final vanity shots. sideways flat

bad model m photo The IBM Model M, was my first foray into mechanical keyboards. The reason for buying was part necessity and part intrigue in the mechanical keyboard world. I had just spilt coffee on my unbranded rubber dome. Yet the demise of the rubber dome was not a sad affair. I felt compelled to purchase a better keyboard. The time between the Model M and the rubber dome was filled with another rubber dome. A logitech K518. It is not a bad keyboard, certainly not the worst rubber dome. But it gave me no excitement or pleasure to type on.

The reason for buying the Model M was both price and availability. At the time it seemed easy to attain. Nonetheless, it currently seems easier and cheaper to buy a Model M. So if you feel the need for a new keyboard as well as having an interest in vintage keyboards, the Model M is an incredible purchase. Not only is it a great keyboard it can be a gateway to other knowledge and interest in other keyboards. One of the great things about the Model M is the ability to modify the keyboard without breaking it. Depending on what level you are on, this might lead to new skills you learn from carrying out your own modifications.

The behemoth I received was a 1391401 dated 03-31-92. I purchased it for £74.62 which is now see as a high price for the board although to the sellers credit it was in impeccable condition. Incredibly, unknown to me the purchase included a blue box, plus one of the longer ps/2 cables. This was lucky as I had disregarded thoughts on how I was actually going to be able to use the keyboard.

Instantly this was a much better typing experience. But I attribute this to typing on a lacklustre rubber dome beforehand. I am glad to say that I was very excited with my new keyboard. I had never before enjoyed typing as much as I now was typing on the weight of the buckling spring. This was a new experience and a welcome one. Contrary to the previous statements the Model M is apparently not the greatest buckling spring keyboard available. Model F’s are highly thought of and in most cases superior to the Model M. Considering this I have a new keyboard goal which is obtaining a kishsaver. Bold this goal may be, it is only a long term goal.

This is a very good keyboard. There isn’t much more that I can say to really convey how good it is. It will last forever. Sort of. The next step wast to bolt mod my Model M. This was something that I had seen a lot of guides on and felt fairly confident doing. At the time however, there was really no reason to perform the mod. It was performing fine and all keys were functioning. But this was just a mod to increase the longevity of the keyboard. Increasing the ‘feeling’ of the board was also a reason behind the mod. Most of all I just wanted to do something interesting with it.

What I can say is that it added some uniformity to the board. Overall the feel improved. It was a slightly sharper click. No flaky weak clicks. This is I think the final form of the Model M. The highest of the high. The only thing I resent is the layout. Standard ansi backspace positioning just infuriates me. I much prefer it to iso, but the backspace positioning holds it back. It is too far for my hands to comfortably reach. The hhkb backspace position is much more comfortable to me. Having it just a bit closer means you have to move your hand less. This has an overall positive effect on strain as well as speed. The problem that then comes with changing the standard layout, is that when typing on a standard ansi my typing becomes noticeably worse. Problems like this are becoming something that are commonplace to me. Changing to colemak has made it infinitely harder to type on a standard qwerty keyboard. So strangely all the changes that I have made to my keyboards to make them ‘better’, have had somewhat of a negative effect on my typing experience. But I still don’t regret them.

Since the layout is the only aspect that I am not satisfied with I have been looking for a solution to perfect this final aspect. One step I took was to change board. This was just a small step to getting a nicer layout in a nicer package. The change was not really necessary as well as not being in-line with my goals of changing the main layout. I bought an SSK, so although I switched boards, it is still a Model M. What this solved was having more space on the right of my keyboard, as I never used the numpad it seemed like a good decision. There was just no point in it taking up space. Changing the layout on any Model M is easy. There are quite a surprising number of options available, as I have said before the Model M’s are mod friendly. Changing layouts is another aspect where this factor is in play. Despite the available options none of them are relevant to my needs. My issue is just with the backspace. Resolving this problem was just something I resorted to doing software side. I did not feel like this was a defeat as all I wanted to do is change the backslash key to backspace, since backslash is the same size as it is on a hhkb. I did not want to do any hardware mod.

Changing the keyboard layout has been done in a non graceful way by awkwardly creating a new layout specifically for the SSK. I created a new layout called ‘ibm’ and it is located with the rest of the layouts in ‘/usr/share/X11/xkb/symbols’ I started out by just copying the ‘us’ layout and renaming it to ‘ibm’. Keeping it separate was a decision to be as non-destructive as possible, since I use a lot of different keyboards I want this to be a flexible solution. If I were to use the ‘ibm’ layout with my hhkb, I would have essentially created an ansi hhkb. This is of course a step backwards.

Link to full layout

As you can see in the gist, it is just a simple change. One mistake I made was changing the default us layout. This refers to qwerty only. So when I was using colemak the change was not in effect, to actually change the layout you have to edit the colemak portion in the us file. The two important lines are:

	key <BKSL> { [    BackSpace,    BackSpace,       BackSpace,        BackSpace ] };
	key <BKSP> { [    backslash,          bar,      asciitilde,       asciitilde ] };

This just shows how the two keys definitions have been switched. Now the backspace is backslash and to avoid loss of functionality, backslash is now backspace.

This seemed like the perfect solution. But actually transitioning is much harder than I had anticipated. I find myself going for the old backspace position time and time again. Now the layout is virtually the same as the hhkb but I don’t type on it the same. This is something I find truly peculiar. It may just indicate how differently I type on different keyboards, and I am set in my ways. Nevertheless, this has not deterred me. I am sticking with the layout as I think it will be better in the long run. At least this is what I am hoping. Another step I have to take is to bolt mod my SSK. Whilst I bolt modded my first Model M, I still haven’t got around to bolt modding the SSK. I will be creating a guide on the future or at least a log of how this goes.

Another option would to completely emulate the hhkb layout on the SSK. This seems to be a common idea that has been done before. But it seems that the files may have been lost when ripster was banned from geekhack. Despite this I do not think this would be usable for me. For this to work you must put a Fn key somewhere. To emulate the hhkb layout on a SSK I would then have to sacrifice right shift, which for me would not work as I use both shift keys when typing. Then again the very nature of the SSK means it does not need the extended functions that come with the hhkb. So this is not something I really want to pursue.

For the moment I am content with both my hhkb and my SSK. They are currently my favourite keyboards. The SSK is a joy to type on and the sound is incredible. The buckling spring is most deservingly one of the better switches available, and holds its own against today’s switches.

my band selection From left to right: 1/8”, 3/16” and Limited edition RoastPotatoes silencing pad.

Upon and before purchasing my HHKB I was quite sure there was a sure-fire way to silence the HHKB quite easily with little cost. It is also supposed to be one of the better ways to silence Topre, because of this I thought that I need not look any further to find a method to silence my HHKB.

When I received my HHKB I was wholly enamoured with the feel of Topre. I was like many before my happy with my happy hacking. But In the keyboard world you have to strive for perfection. I just watched a video and couldn’t get the sounds out of my head. In my mind the dental banded HHKB just seemed a little better to me. And at that time I just wasn’t entirely happy with the noise produced by my HHKB. But as I mentioned earlier I went into this purchasing knowing of a ‘sure-fire’ way to silence it. This method is of course dental banding the sliders.

If you have not come across this method before. It is very simple. You have to disassemble your HHKB right to the core. And then once you have removed all the sliders add a dental band to the base.

Originally I had thought of putting together a guide on how to perform the dental band mod. But I feel like it would be redundant to my interests. It is quite a simple method (available guides are quite fine) but I am not at all happy with the product.

I have used ‘sure-fire’ as how I saw this method prior to carrying it out. This is because this is how it is portrayed on every place I can find on the internet. I will credit cookie as one of the people who seems most instrumental in the current effort to find the ideal method to silence Topre avoiding all side effects.

Issues

I feel that the dental band mod only gets good press. I would like introduce my alternative view because I feel like people might have the same issues in the future.

When I put the dental bands on, immediately it was noticeably quieter. This was fairly indisputable however when listening closer I heard a quite prevalent pinging sound. It was if I could just hear the spring pinging about. When typing and hearing the “Topre Rain” this is exactly what you don’t want. Once you hear it you will never go back, to how you once viewed the mod. Just in the background you can hear the pinging. This was the main problem. It was just not what I was looking for. Topre is an entirely different experience than buckling spring. With buckling springs the pinging is a part of the experience (unless you have flossed) and is something that is welcome. The other issue is the feeling. Alongside the sound I could feel the vibrations in my finger tips. This was very unpleasant and just felt like the tips of my finger tips were vibrating with every press. Putting it into words is not easy but it was certainly the most disagreeable typing experience I have had.
In reference to the reduced travel, I did not have any problem with this. So I will not list this as a problem with the dental band mod.

I honestly do not really know what causes this problem. What I am guessing is that the springs are already compressed (due to the reduced space because of the dental bands) and this effects how they spring back up when further compressed. The bands push the sliders up slightly so when you put the domes and plate on, the plate does not sit flat in the case. It has to be screwed in order for the keyboard to actually become together.

To corroborate what I am saying and give at least some validity to what I am saying. cookie mentions something similar here

Investigation

My first thought was that I had put the bands on wrong or I had unseated the springs. This is where I lost a lot of time, I have taken my HHKB apart and reassembled it a lot. I was madly trying to find the solution to this problem.

The first trial was to ensure the bands were oriented correctly on each slider. So it was flat and not twisted. This had little effect. The next step I took was to take the domes off and reseat the springs myself. Here is an action that I resent. It did not help with the problem and has made my life a lot harder when disassembling my HHKB. It means you have to put all the domes on correctly and then align the springs yourself. If your domes have not come off by themselves just enjoy it while it lasts. I did briefly look for information on whether it was better to separate the domes or not, but I found nothing. I would like to go on record recommending to not do so.

My next thought was the dental bands I was using. The first I used were 1/8th dental bands. I had seen in the guides that either 1/8 or 3/16 were fine, and both had been used to great effect. I then got my 3/16 bands and repeated the same trials. This did not help anything.

The next step was creating my own silencing ‘bands’ this was done quite spontaneously after finding the perfect material. That material was foam earplugs. The material seemed perfect because they were squishy and resilient from being squashed. I then began slicing them up until I had around 70, just enough to allow for mistakes. I had managed to create some uniformity with having the discs around 1mm. After some extensive testing where I took out some compared to dental bands and reassembled everything. They were no good. I was having a similar problem. The pinging had been reduced but the vibration was still there. When making them it seemed like I was onto the final solution. But it did not turn out that way. They were just too big. These were not a success.

After going back to dental bands and giving them a longer trial around a month. I have returned to stock. I have learned to appreciate my HHKB and am content with its stock thock.

The Future

I understand that there are people who still want to find the perfect Topre silencing method. Going on the current research thin foam is the way to go. I would also like to draw attention to this interest check. This is the most promising way you will achieve the ‘perfect’ Topre sound.
I did not find the solution to my problem or even find out the cause. But I have enjoyed the process and am very happy with my current almost stock HHKB.

For me, dental banding did not work, and overall was a bad experience but others may like to try it out. Here are some guides I found most useful:

Here is a nice video demonstrating the nice sound of the stock HHKB Pro 2.